Month: September 2014

Who’s Your Dadi?

Recently I posted the following status on Facebook.

WhosYourDadi Blog

Which earned some giggles from fellow nail techs.  Then I got to thinking.  I use my oil for many things.  Do others know all the benefits?  My clients do, I tell them all the time.  Many of them are using their Dadi’Oil exactly as I use mine.  But are other nail technicians getting FULL benefit of their Dadi’Oil?

So let’s take a step back.  Once upon a time when I first started out in this industry, I learned about the benefits of ‘cuticle oil’ (which is a misnomer by the way since we remove the cuticle, so why would the cuticle need any oil? Let’s save that debate for another day LOL)   Anyhow.  As a newbie tech, I was searching for the most cost effective way to do things for myself and for my clients.  Newbie Nail Techs have limited funds, as we all know.  Also, there was the issue of my sensitive allergic skin and my daughter’s.  We have trouble finding products to soothe our skin and we are prone to reacting to store bought creams.  So my research started.  One year later, I launched my own “Cuticle Oil”  and named it Serieuse.  I had done my homework.  Full of wonderful carrier oils.  I couldn’t keep it in stock. It flew off my shelves.

Fast forward a few years. Now I’ve discovered Dadi’Oil and slowly stepped away from making my own oil. Why?  OMG BECAUSE DADI’OIL IS THE BOMB and smells DIVINE! I never did find the perfect balance for my own and frankly, I didn’t have the time for the fuss.  While my own oil is absolutely lovely, it just didn’t measure up. Once I tried Dadi’Oil, I didn’t want to use my own anymore  LMFAO.

Having said all of that. Do YOU know all the wonderful things that can be achieved with a good quality conditioning oil?

Let’s talk about the carrier oils in Dadi’Oil, and their exceptional reputation.

Avocado Oil: Avocado Carrier Oil contains Vitamins A, B1, B2, D, E. Avocado oil is high in a substance called sterolin, which studies have shown to facilitate the softening of the skin and to reduce the incidence of age spots. Avocado oil is rich in antioxidants, making it useful for healing sun-damaged skin.  When applied, avocado oil increases the production of collagen, which helps keep the skin plump and decreases the effects of aging. Has significant effect upon soothing eczema and psoriasis.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil:  It’s hypoallergenic. Contains antioxidants like vitamins A and E that help repair and renew skin that has been damaged from overexposure to sun, air pollution, and other modern-day environmental hazards. Just a drop or two of extra virgin olive oil on a cotton pad is all it takes to gently and effectively remove eye makeup without irritating the delicate skin around the eye area. The biggest added advantage is that when used consistently, olive oil can soften the skin around the eyes and smooth out wrinkles.

Jojoba Oil: It closely resembles the sebum of the skin, and is rich in vitamin E, a great anti-oxidant.  jojoba oil can help regulate the amount of sebum (what you see as oil) your skin makes, creating less oil. Jojoba oil is non-greasy and it has anti-inflammatory properties to help you to reduce acne-related problems.  jojoba oil offers anti-bacterial benefits as well. A combination of those two characteristics helps to reduce various skin problems including eczema and psoriasis. Jojoba oil also contains a substance known as myristic acid which can be used for treating arthritis and rheumatism.

Natural Vitamin E (Tocopherol): Vitamin E plays a crucial role in protecting skin cells and membranes from environmental damage. This protection extends to preventing damage to the skin from UV rays, pollutants and the effects of aging. The d-alpha-tocopherol also protects against lipid peroxidation, which helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.  Pure vitamin E oil is helpful for scar healing and prevention.

THEN there are the 21 Essential Oils that all have benefits as well. But we’ll stop here for today. as usual, my posts tend to be long.  hahaha

Now at this point I should like to mention that creams/lotions/balms etc found in department stores, and at makeup counters that are intended for moisturizing usually contain Petrolatum/Petroleum/Mineral Oil which are all derived from crude oil and nasty for your skin.   In my books, Petroleum is a bad word for skin (but we’ll discuss that another day) They also include such things as perfumes, unnecessary dilutants and ingredients meant to make the texture more attractive but that don’t benefit you. They often contain parabens and other ingredients that are KNOWN irritants.  They also add water. I don’t know about you; but I can get water from my tap for free. I don’t want to pay extra for water in fancy packaging.

So, after having read all of that, would it surprise you to know that Dadi’Oil is being used in the following ways by myself and my clients?

  • to moisturize your face daily as protection against signs of aging (myself and several clients of mine do this)
  • as a general-purpose moisturizer for hands and skin all over (instead of a cream)
  • as a hair moisturizing treatment (then washed out after)
  • to keep Acne-Rosacea under control (I have not needed prescription medication for either since I switched)
  • to treat burns
  • to speed the healing of skin after a cut has closed, to prevent scarring
  • as an eye-make-up remover
  • to soothe and treat psoriasis and eczema (without need of cortizone/steroid creams)
  • applied to the pads of dogs’ feet in winter months when they are chapped and cracking
  • to apply to a dog’s cracked/dry nose
  • on dry heels of feet
  • as a lip balm
  • to soothe chapped skin (such as the nose when you have a cold and blow it too often…)
  • …. and more

So I ask again.

Who’s your Dadi?

2012-02 Dadi 2.4oz No Box 240

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Dadi’Oil VS Solar Oil (Tocopherol VS Tocopheryl Acetate)

Recently there have been several discussions on nail tech boards, groups and forums with regards to which Nail Conditioning Oil (aka “cuticle oil”) is better, and what is the primary difference between the two?

Famous Names Products Dadi’Oil VS  CND Solar Oil?

Nail technicians (myself included) reviewed the MSDS  (Material Safety & Data Sheets) for both products and we found that Dadi’Oil contained Tocopherol, while Solar Oil contained Tocopheryl Acetate.

Jim Nordstrom is the creator of BOTH oils.  When I asked him on the subject, this was his reply.

Tocopherol is NATURAL Vitamin E.  It is a potent anti-oxidant.   The Acetate is SYNTHETIC and it is not a potent anti-oxidant.  I have been told that is has about 1/100th the anti-oxidant activity that the natural version has. 

So, as I’ve said many times on the forums; if YOU were going to do something a second time and recreate it, wouldn’t you IMPROVE upon the original?  Jim Nordstrom did in fact IMPROVE upon the original.  He brought you Dadi’Oil.

Dadi’Oil contains 3 Certified Organic Oils, and 21 Essential Oils. It also contains Natural Vit E (Tocopherol) and NOT the synthetic version (Tocopheryl Acetate).

So for those of you with a great appreciation and preference for Natural and/or Certified Organic Products for Skin Care, you will likely prefer Tocopherol, the Natural form of Vitamin E.

There is a GREAT deal of difference between the two, in my humble opinion.   Further research into the differences provides the following information that was common amongst several resources.

Tocopheryl acetate is derived from Tocopherol, by a process that uses Petroleum. Tocopheryl acetate is the ester form of Tocopherol, meaning it has an alcohol in the structure.

Short Detour: Please be reminded that Petroleum is derived from Crude oil. It sits on the skin’s surface and potentially blocks pores. It can not be absorbed, the molecules are too large. It will trap dirt and bacteria.

The natural Tocopherol is better retained by the body compared to the synthetic form Tocopheryl Acetate. “The bioavailability (available for use by the body) is 2:1 for natural-source Vitamin E over synthetic Vitamin E.”    (In other words, you need twice as much Synthetic Vit E to equal Natural Vit E.)

Borochoff, M.D. of Houston, Texas points out, “When present in nature, vitamin E is found only in the alcoholic form. It oxidizes readily. But when it is extracted in esterified form as an acetate, the vitamin E cannot be oxidized. To act as an anti-oxidant the vitamin supplement has to oxidize itself to prevent the oxidation of something else surrounding it. If it cannot oxidize, the vitamin E form is worthless as an anti-oxidant. In contrast, the primary benefit looked for in vitamin E is its anti-oxidant qualities.” Thus, the tocopheryls (synthetic form) do not serve as anti-oxidants.”

Keeping in mind that when we use Vitamin E in skin care products, the purpose is the ‘anti-oxidant’ properties!

Not only did Jim improve upon the original, but he is also providing a product that provides Nail Technicians and Clients with better value for their money!  It’s well known that when using Natural and Organic ingredients, that a little goes a long way.  Less is MORE.

Despite providing you with a higher end product that uses more costly ingredients, Dadi’Oil is still priced competitively.  How do I know they are more costly?  From my own forays into making natural skin care products such as body balms and such, and purchasing the necessary ingredients to make them.  I can tell you that I found Natural Vitamin E (Tocopherol) to be more expensive than it’s synthetic counterpart Tocopheryl Acetate.

So ask me again why I think Dadi’Oil is better?

Click to read the MSDS.

MSDS CND Solar Oil                   MSDS Dadi Oil

 

 

IBX QUICK NOTES From Pamela Black

Pamela Black is my partner in crime.  Together, we are Educators for Famous Name Products and we offer support and assistance in the use of said products.

Daily, nightly, we are bombarded with questions on Facebook groups, and by email.  Out of necessity, Pamela penned the below notes to be able to quickly reply to inquiries.  I hope that you find them helpful.

HOW TO CURE: You can cure it in either LED or UV, the same amount of time you cure your color coat. You need a HEAT source-75 w bulb, reg polish dryer, blow dryer on low heat setting or a Minx lamp on low. We want the Heat to allow the penetrating oils to get INTO the nail plate, not ‘cook’ it.

UNDER GEL POLISH: Under GelPolish, you remove it like you normally do. Then, all we do before Repair & IBX is file & shape the nails. Cleanse the nail w/your preferred cleanser. Apply Repair the Entire nail plate. I usually start w/the damaged areas first, to let it seep into those areas, then cover the entire nail. HEAT for 1 min. Blot off any excess lightly w/lint free pad. Cure for your light. Cleanse. Apply IBX on entire nail plate. HEAT 2 min. Blot. Cure. Cleanse. Go onto your GelPolish application like you normally do. If it says to buff before base coat, then buff. If you don’t normally buff-then don’t.

UNDER REGULAR POLISH:Under reg polish, shape & file nails. Cleanse. Apply Repair only on visual damage ( peeling, splitting, ridges) If there is no damage, you DO NOT need to apply repair. HEAT 1 min. Blot. Cure. Cleanse. Apply IBX over entire nail plate, like you would a polish. HEAT 2 min. Blot. Cure. cleanse. Now go onto the steps you normally do for a mani. If you soak-soak. If you apply cuticle remover, use this after your IBX application-not before. We don’t want anything in the nail plate to prevent IBX from penetrating into it.

FIRST TIME APPLICATION: First time application on a client. The only thing that changes on a first timer, either under GelPolish or Reg polish, is that we apply IBX TWICE. We really want the IBX to get INTO the nail plate. Do your repair as per above, but when you apply the IBX, we do a 4 min HEAT. Blot. Cure. Cleanse. Apply IBX again, w/the 2min HEAT process explained above. Blot. Cure. Cleanse. Then continue w/your service.

It sounds like a lot, but it will become habit. This is my long, explains everything directions. Go to IBXnails.com & print out Fast track sheet until it becomes habit. Lots if info on the site also. Feel free to ask me any questions! That’s what I’m here for!”

Thanks Pam!!  I’m sure many will appreciate your Quick Notes!

 

Please, read the menu…

Other Nail Technicians and Stylists will feel my pain, and regular client’s will nod their heads knowingly as they’ve sat there with me when I have received ‘one of those’ types of phone-calls.

The reason to read the menu – KNOW your options.  Yes, you should know them before you call.   I have lost count of the times I have received a phone call that went like this:

  • Caller: Hi, how much for a French?
  • Me: What kind of French would you like?
  • Caller: I just want a regular French, how much is it?
  • Me:  Well, do you mean Natural Nails with a Nail Polish French, or Natural Nails with a Shellac French, or UV Gel/Acrylic French extensions?
  • Caller: I just want a French! Why won’t you tell me how much?!

Not all salons offer the same services, and/or use the same service descriptions.  This is why reading the menu and service descriptions is important.  I’m a Grand Master Nail Stylist, my menu is LONG and the options are limitless. I have no way possible of knowing exactly what is on your mind.  To BEST meet your needs,  I need your help to answer your questions. I need to understand your expectations.

We spend hours preparing a service menu that is clear, and outlines everything that you need to know. We’ll go over it back to front, sideways, inside out and upside down.  Sometimes we have more than one version; one for brochure, one for website, one for online booking system and etc. Some of us will bust our nuts providing detailed descriptions of our services so that everything is clear and all the answers are there for you to find. BEFORE you contact us.  BEFORE you sit down for your appointment.   BEFORE we begin your service.

Why am I emphasizing ‘before’?  Because we are paid for our time.  When we book appointments, they are booked by time required for that service and frequently clients are scheduled back to back without a thought for a ‘break’.  Unless you specify and/or ask for a ‘consult’, we do not include extra time in your appointment.  Sorry, but that is the reality. YES of course you may ask questions, and it’s our pleasure to answer them… within reason.  But if you are unsure of what you want and intend a 30 minute discussion, and you think that you might have 50 questions to ask us; then you really ought to book a consultation.  That is what a consultation is for: answering questions, providing options and ideas to best meet your needs and goals. To best satisfy YOU.

Many salons will offer you a consult free of charge, as long as you book an appointment for said consult.  I offer FREE consultations with pleasure. In fact, I ENCOURAGE consultations.  But I do need to know ahead of time in case the person booked after you doesn’t want to start her appointment 30 minutes late.

Which brings me back to ‘Read the Menu’. Yes, the one we laboriously spend hours creating.  My most sincere apologies, but I most certainly can NOT read out the entire menu to you over the phone and all it’s options.  If I’m busy on the phone, then I can’t do nails. It’s that simple.  I’m sorry that you felt I was unreasonable to request you visit my webpage and or schedule a consult for me to go over my entire menu in minute detail.  BUT the lovely lady seated in front of me will NOT appreciate it if I take a 20 minute phone call during her time that SHE is paying for.  She wants me to herself, she wants my undivided attention devoted to HER and HER nails.  That’s what SHE is paying for.

So I beg of you, if you have absolutely no idea what you want, PRETTY PLEASE WITH A SWAROVSKI RHINESTONE ON TOP read the menu before you call.  Read the descriptions of the services. PLEASE refer to my Facebook page as I strongly suggest to look at pictures and to get an idea of what you want BEFORE your scheduled appointment. And PLEASE request a Consult.

There is nothing I like more than to give a client exactly what they want and then have them leave with a million dollar smile.   But if our time is cut short by 30 minutes playing 20-questions, sadly there won’t be time to give you what you want.  😦  If I have a client booked immediately after you, and we have used up 20-30 minutes of your time just to reach a decision on nail art… The odds are pretty high that you will NOT get what you want and I’ll have to do the ‘short version’ to finish you in time for the next client.

As a proud Nail Stylist, the ‘short version’ is the absolutely LAST thing I want to do….

 

 

Assuming the worst.

Assuming the worst.  We’ve all been witness to this.  All of us are guilty of  it, to one degree or another.   However, for some, it’s instinctual. It’s incessant.  It’s a sign of a deeper problem.  They will hear and/or read what they CHOOSE to.  They will apply a negative slant to the words and there is nothing that YOU can do about it.

I see it time and again on online chat forums; where a member of the group will assume the worst and spin what was said into a negative attack against them. They seek out insult where there is none.  They assume they have been criticized where no personal criticisms were uttered.  They feel slighted, insulted, attacked, belittled and the list goes on.

There is apparently a ‘condition’ that causes this.  it is known as “Cognitive Distortion”.   Apparently those that struggle with depression and anxiety will habitually suffer ‘Cognitive Distortion’.  It is defined as “Jumping to conclusions is a type of negative thinking pattern. When a person is jumping to conclusions, they are drawing negative conclusions with little or no evidence to their assumptions”.

This link http://panicdisorder.about.com/od/livingwithpd/tp/Jumping-To-Conclusions.htm  goes on to say

“Jumping to conclusions can occur in two ways: mind-reading and fortune-telling. When a person is “mind-reading” they are assuming that others are negatively evaluating them or have bad intentions for them. When a person is “fortune-telling,” they are predicting a negative future outcome or deciding that situations will turn out for the worst before the situation has even occurred. ”

Those that are insecure about themselves, whether or not they suffer the above condition are also guilty of assuming the worst of someone to whom they compare themselves to, and feel threatened by (although no threat exists).  Someone who IS secure doesn’t assume the negative and doesn’t feel threatened by the intelligence or success of another. Someone who IS secure will deliberately seek to learn from others who are more successful and/or intelligent than they are themselves.  They will applaud that person.

Buddha has this to say ““Your worst enemy cannot harm you as much as your own unguarded thoughts.”

I usually choose to walk away from the negative energy. Save yourself the heartache. You’re not a shrink. Neither am I for that matter.  We can’t fix these people. It’s up to them to want to fix themselves.  So if someone finds insult in your words where none were intended, apologize for their misconception and for not having explained yourself well.  If they continue having a meltdown once you’ve apologized, then walk away. Close the door. End the communication. You have better things to do with your time and so do I.

After all, once a negative-minded person has made the decision that you are the devil incarnate and that you have grievously offended them with innocent words, there is nothing that can be said to change their mind and odds are you’ll only make matters worse. And dollars to donuts, if they perceive personal insult where none is intended, you can pretty much guarantee that they will go on the offensive and start slinging actual personal insults.  Then the next thing you know, a total shit-storm is taking place.

Who needs that?

So my advice for the day – steer clear of the negative and embrace the positive.

Negative attitude

Hitchhikers in Marketing- It’s NOT a Gel

Hitchhikers in Marketing. It happens all the time.  A product is advertised, with emphasis on certain words.  Certain words that have earned a specific reputation. You get excited! You want it! It’s exactly what you want! However, CHEAPER than the original alternative! Gotta have it!

Or is it?

Let’s look at “Mineral Foundation Makeup”.  When Mineral Foundation first hit the scene, it changed things.  It became the ‘must have’ for every woman wanting healthier skin and easier to apply makeup.    A short while later, well known companies were producing “Mineral Makeup” too.  But wait!  Did you read the ingredient’s list?    REAL and TRUE “Mineral” makeup contains ONLY minerals (micas and oxides). That’s it, that’s all.  Nothing else.  So really, the ingredient list for REAL Mineral makeup should never exceed 3 ingredients.  Have you purchased mineral makeup at the department store lately?  I’ll bet there were more than 3 ingredients in the list…

So your question becomes “if it’s not mineral makeup, then why is it called that”.  Why? Because companies want to cash in! It’s all about money of course.   “But how is that legal? They’re lying to us!”  Oh, but they’re not.   Your mistake was assuming that because it said “mineral” makeup, that it was 100% pure minerals with no other additives.  WRONG!    All they did was add minerals to a regular makeup ingredient list and wham-bam-thank-you-mam, all legal and justified.

Welcome to Hitchhikers in Marketing.   Businesses that have watched a product/brand explode onto the market with all kinds of success and they want to hitch a ride on that train and get a little bit for themselves without doing any of the work.    They just walk down the hall to their marketing team, and that marketing team employs a word that they KNOW will deliberately mislead you.  A word that they KNOW means something in particular to you, the consumer – but can be used in so many ways.  All perfectly legal of course.

So on that note, the next craze…. Gels and Gel Polish.    Let’s be 100% clear:  REAL AUTHENTIC UV Gel and Gel Polish absolutely MUST HAVE a UV LAMP with UV BULBS to cure (ie: dry).  If your gel cures/dries without one, it is NOT a Gel product.  Yet again, Beauty companies are playing on the masses.  They spotted a trend and want to hitchhike on the success of other products and their businesses.  UV Gel & UV Polish are relatively new to the Beauty Industry in comparison to much older products (such as traditional nail polish and acrylic).  Companies everywhere are scrambling to cash in on this cash cow.  Consumers LOVE the stuff.   So how do they do it, they slap the word ‘gel’ onto whatever they like.   So unwitting consumers purchase a ‘no light gel kit’ from the pharmacy, get home, apply the product. HEY! It’s not immediately dry!  HEY! It’s not lasting 2-4wks.  Why? Because it’s NOT UV Gel or Gel Polish.  Why is the company allowed to slap the word ‘gel’ onto the product?  Because the product is of a thicker consistency… That’s all.

“Gel” is defined as “a jellylike substance containing a cosmetic, medicinal, or other preparation.”

THAT’S why they are allowed to advertise their product as ‘gel’ despite it being nothing like the product that you anticipate it to be.

So before you run off to the pharmacy, be sure to educate yourself and learn exactly what it is that you are spending your hard earned money on.   Are you getting the real deal? Or a Hitchhiker?

Hitchhiker Marketing

Hitchhiker Marketing